Little Ochie must be one of the few restaurants in the world where diners schedule their visits according to the moon. It sits on the beach in Alligator Pond, a remote village still untouched by tourism in the south of Jamaica, and for visitors staying along the coast in Treasure Beach it is best reached by boat. At sunset, a fisherman will collect you and take you on a bumpy ride across dark waves, the silvery light of a full moon picking out the skyline of the desolate coastline. After nearly an hour, in the distance a glow begins to twinkle on the shore. Quite suddenly the boat runs aground, pitched on to the beach by the surf, more or less depositing you at your table.

Evrol Christian - known as Blackie - opened Little Ochie (00876 965 4449, littleochie.com) in 1989 as a tiny restaurant serving breakfast for fishermen on their way out to sea. It now seats 400, most in old wooden canoes built on stilts on the sand, thatched with palm fronds and painted Rasta colours - a deceptively rustic aesthetic, for this is one of the most celebrated fish restaurants in the Caribbean.

"You'll never come to Little Ochie and be served on a white tablecloth because that's not our style," says Blackie. "Over the years people hear about the place, and so they come in suit and tie, and when they reach here they're a bit surprised. But our ambience matches the food we serve."